Photo by Kenny Kim.

Intro.

By Anthony Molinaro

As many of you know, Joanne and I are frequent visitors to Rome. It’s where my father is from, where much of my dad’s side of the family still resides, and where we got married in 2018. Having traveled there TEN times together since 2015, we have a pretty good handle on the city, not only as it relates to plant-based eateries, but with regards to the general vibe as well. In this post, we’ll talk food, coffee (and Italian coffee culture), running, music and entertainment, and maybe a little shopping too. All things that tend to comprise our typical day to day when visiting one of our favorite cities in the world.

I’m also including some of our notable discoveries in Florence, Milan, Turin, Lake Garda, and from the islands of Sardinia and Ponza. After all, on one three day stretch last year in Northern Italy, we experienced three of the most exquisite and delicious fully plant-based tasting menus ever. Gotta include those!

Finally, we’ll update this post as we discover new hotspots and visit other Italian cities (we’ll be in Venice and the Dolomites for the first time together this fall). And we most definitely welcome your contributions in the comments below. What are your favorites? Have you been to any of the places we listed? Let us know!

Buon Appetito, Roma!

Let’s get right into it with some of our fav eateries in our favorite city! We were last in Rome in June of 2023 and visited every place on this list. 

Romeow Cat Bistro – Don’t let the cats or the name fool you. This is a serious restaurant, with seriously good food. Some of the best we’ve ever had, in fact. I have no idea how we hadn’t heard of it before, but it’s at the top of our list now. Unlike the other restaurants mentioned here, Romeow Cat Bistro is just a bit outside of the historic center, in the Ostiense neighborhood, but that shouldn’t deter you. The food alone is worth the short trip, but if you’re so inclined, there are also a lot of fantastic things to check out in both Ostiense and neighboring Testaccio, especially if you’re interested in something a little different from the major monuments and crowds of the historic center. Finally, be sure to make a reservation, it’s required. Try this: Ricotta di mandorle, Spaghettone di Gragnano, Fuori dalla norma mezzelune, the tiramisu, and the matcha semifreddo pictured below. Check them out on Instagram. Located at: Via Francesco Negri 15, 00154 Roma, Italia. 

Vrindaa – Vrindaa is an all vegan and organic fine dining establishment located near Villa Borghese. Excited to finally experience this ayurvedic kitchen, which serves a fusion of Indian and Italian cuisine, we went all in, opting for the creative ten course tasting menu, which, in addition to being absolutely delicious, was beautifully presented and wonderfully explained. If you decide on the tasting menu, make sure you’re hungry. It’s substantial! Otherwise, it’s probably best to order à la carte. Either way, you’re in for a very special evening. A reservation is highly recommended. On Instagram. Located at: Via Salaria, 203, 00198 Roma, Italia.

Ma Va’? – We love this restaurant so much that we hosted a private welcome dinner there for all of our guests the night before our wedding in 2018. Located in the neighborhood of Prati (not too far from the Vatican), this all vegan restaurant is an absolute gem. It’s charming, authentic, and everything is delicious. We’ve been eating at Ma Va’ for years, but it felt extra special to be back post-pandemic and see it alive and well. Try this: Polpette di Melanzane, Spaghetti aglio olio e peperoncino, Strozzapreti in carbonara di zucchine. Ma Va’ on Instagram. Located at: Via Euclide Turba, 6/8, 00195 Roma, Italia; +39 063729134, ristomava@libero.it. 

Rosemary Terra e Sapori – We discovered Rosemary last year when we were staying in the area. I remember Joanne mentioning it as an option for lunch one day, and though it’s not an all vegan eatery, we fortunately decided to go. The restaurant is bright and inviting, and our lunch, featuring the homemade gnocchi and torta vegana below, was a favorite meal of our trip. The staff is welcoming and professional and they clearly take a lot of pride in the simple, healthy, and sustainable principles that they champion. We’ve only gone for lunch, and though they don’t have a lot of vegan options on the menu, I wouldn’t hesitate to go back. In fact, I can’t wait to go back! It appears that they also have vegan croissants in the morning and at our lunch visits, they’ve always offered us additional plant-based options not listed on the menu. Check out Rosemary Terra e Sapori on Instagram. It’s about a 10 minute walk from Rome’s main train station (Stazione Termini). Located at: Via Modena, 15, 00184 Roma, Italia.

At Rosemary Terra e Sapori.

La Renella – If we’re going to call La Renella a pizza “al taglio” joint, then it’s our favorite pizza slice shop of all time, anywhere! It’s located in the super popular Trastevere district, but it still feels like a hidden gem. At any given time, you’re likely to find at least 3-4 different vegan options (even more vegetarian ones), and as is the norm in Italy, you choose the size of your slice. Our recommendation is to opt for smaller slices so you can try several different varieties of pizza. Once you’ve made your choices, they’ll heat everything up (if necessary) and prepare a beautiful tray for you from your haul (see the picture below). There is a long bar-like setup along the wall with stools, but there aren’t any tables, so it’s better suited for an informal lunch or snack rather than dinner. Try this: All of the vegan options! And definitely the pizza con patate (potatoes), Joanne’s favorite. Located at: Via del Moro, 15, 00153 Roma, Italia; +39 06 581 7265.

Pizza al taglio in Trastevere!

100% Bio – This was a new discovery for us and we absolutely loved it! We did the lunch buffet and everything was spectacular. The variety of dishes was impressive, the buffet was simple to manage (just weigh your plate at the end and out pops a receipt), everyone was super friendly, and the decor and vibe clean, fresh, and modern. It’s very healthy, and as the name suggests, everything is organic! We can’t wait to try both breakfast and dinner here on our next trip. Try this: It’s a buffet (at least for lunch), so try as much as possible. One tip though, leave room for tiramisù! On Instagram. Located at: Piazza di Porta San Paolo, 6A (piramide), 00153 Roma, Italia: +39 06 57 47 778, roma@centopercento.bio.

From the buffet at 100% Bio.

Buddy – We’ve loved Buddy Cafe for years, but it’s fair to say that we grew to appreciate it more than ever during our last trip. Their website describes it as “a modern but cozy place where you can have breakfast, eat a light and quick meal, have an aperitif, or dine.” That sums it up nicely, and we’ve done all of those things! We wouldn’t necessarily put Buddy in the same league as the other restaurants listed here, but if you need a break from all the sightseeing (or shopping in our case :-), Buddy is a great option. It’s close to almost all of the main attractions in the historical center, just a stone’s throw from Piazza Navona and Campo de’ Fiori. Try this: Pizza Tartufata, Pasta Cacio e Pepe. Buddy on Instagram. Located at: Corso Vittorio Emanuele II, 107A, 00186 Roma, Italia; +39 06 8772 8433, prenotazionibuddyroma@gmail.com.

Bar La Licata – When in Rome, do as the Romans do! That means breakfast standing at the bar with a cappuccino and cornetto (croissant). The good news is that an ever-increasing number of bars in Rome (bar = café, not pub) now offer vegan croissants and almost all have at least soy milk. But, some stock up on their “cornetti vegani” a little more than others and make it a point to cater to their vegan clientele. One such place is Bar La Licata, where we ate almost every morning on one of our recent trips. If you are in the Monti neighborhood (close to the Coliseum), this is your place. They also have tables if you want to sit down, both inside and out. Try this: Cornetto Vegano all’albicocca (croissant with apricot filling) with a cappuccino di soia (soy milk cappuccino). Located at: Via dei Serpenti 165, 00184 Roma, Italia; +39.06 48 84 746; info@barlalicata.it.

To wrap things up, here are a few more recommendations that might come in handy. First, the new (or at least new to us) lineup of vegan-friendly gelaterias called The Gelatist. There are several locations throughout Rome, and, in addition to various vegan flavors made with fresh fruit, they also offered a trio of plant-based flavors made with rice milk when we visited: chocolate, hazelnut, and pistachio. If you’re planning to check out the Pantheon, Gelateria Della Palma is another great gelato joint to consider. They have lots of vegan flavors plus vegan cones too. Finally, Origano is a reliably good vegan-friendly restaurant with central locations near Piazza Navona and Piazza di Spagna, and Barnum is a favorite bar (café) that we frequent for coffee and croissants when we’re staying near Piazza Campo De’ Fiori.

---

Coffee And Breakfast al Bar.

As mentioned in the write up for Bar La Licata above, Italian breakfasts typically amount to little more than a cappuccino and a pastry, especially when you grab breakfast at a bar, which you absolutely must do! It’s one of the great delights of waking up in Italy. In fact, even when Joanne and I find ourselves at a hotel offering an incredible “too-good-to-pass-up” international breakfast buffet, we ALWAYS save room for a “second breakfast,” which means a coffee and cornetto (croissant) at a bar.

A few basic and important things to know. First, standing at a bar and enjoying a coffee is a quintessential Italian experience. Do not miss it! Be sure to hit at least one bar off the beaten “touristy” path and allow yourself this experience. 

To the details: 

If you drink your coffee at the actual bar, i.e. standing, which most Italians do (same goes with a pastry or anything else you might order), you’ll pay less than if you sit down at a table (if they even have them, many don’t). Coffee costs so little though, that even at a table, you’ll likely pay only a fraction of what you’re used to coughing up at Starbucks. So, it’s not at all prohibitive, just something to know. 

The extra price at a table is for service. If you’re wondering about tipping, it’s not expected, but also not uncommon if you had a particularly good experience. Leaving a euro (€) or two for coffee and a small meal at a table (or a little change, e.g. € .20 or € .50 if you’re standing at the bar) is in line with what we normally do. But again, it’s not obligatory. Finally, be sure to have coins on hand if you think you may want to leave a tip (la mancia), because it’s unlikely that their credit card machines are even set up to accept one. I wouldn’t be surprised if this changes in the future (or has begun already, I hope not!), but as of our last trip in 2023, this wasn’t normal, if even in existence. If you encounter a CC machine that has a tip recommendation on the ready, you probably went to the wrong place!! Haha…

Ok, so assuming that you walk into a bar to order coffee and or a pastry (to consume standing at the bar), the first thing to know is that it’s common to pay first at the cashier (la cassa). Sometimes, the register is behind the bar and it’s really one in the same (i.e. you can’t really go wrong), but often it’s at the front of the establishment and the barista may ask you to pay first. If he or she doesn’t speak English, this could result in a “deer in the headlights” kinda moment, so look for the cashier and play it safe and pay first. They will give you a receipt (lo scontrino), which you’ll then give to the barista with any necessary details (soy milk, oat milk, which pastry you want, etc). Of course, you may need to look and see what they have first or ask the barista a question or two in this regard before returning to the cashier to order, e.g. “ci sono i cornetti vegani?” (do you have vegan croissants?) or “c’è latte d’avena?” (do you have oat milk?), but just be aware of this possibility so you know what’s happening. And this is not always the case, especially if it’s a smaller or less crowded bar, but better to know. If in doubt, just ask. You can say, “si paga prima?” (do you pay first?) By the way, it’s the same thing at a gelateria. And there especially, you could get stuck waiting several minutes to order before being told you have to pay first at the cashier, so best to be on the lookout from the onset. 

Un Caffè, Per Favore…

Let’s get down to business! Here are the different types of coffee that we typically order. And if you’d like to order in Italian, here are two simple options: “un caffè, per favore” (a coffee, please) or “vorrei un caffè, per favore” (I would like a coffee, please). Just sub in the name of the coffee you’d like from the list below.

Caffè (espresso) – if you want an espresso, you only have to ask for a caffè. In Italy it is understood everywhere that caffè means espresso.

If you want a double shot, ask for a “caffè doppio.” A double shot is not as common in Italy as in the U.S., perhaps because a single shot is strong enough.

Caffè Macchiato – a caffè macchiato (or simply macchiato), is a shot of espresso with a dash of milk and is a very common drink in Italy. Macchiato literally means to mark, blot, or stain. So this shot of espresso is marked with a touch of milk. If you’re unfamiliar with this drink, just think of it as a little cappuccino (less milk). Ask for it: “un macchiato con latte di soia, per favore” or “vorrei un macchiato con latte di soia, per favore.”

Cappuccino – I think everyone knows what a cappuccino is, a shot of espresso with steamed milk, and a frothy layer of foam on top. What you might not know is that it’s typically thought of as a breakfast coffee, i.e. only to be ordered in the morning. If you’re planning a trip to Italy, you may have read that you might get a strange look if you order it in the afternoon, so if you want to adhere to local customs, save it for the morning. Ask for it, “un cappuccino con latte di soia, per favore,” or “vorrei un cappuccino con latte di soia, per favore.”

Caffè Americano – a caffè americano is a shot of espresso with hot water added. It’s Joanne’s drink and, basically, it’s Italy’s version of American “drip” coffee.

Caffè Shakerato – Let’s throw in one iced drink since there’s a good chance you’ll be visiting Rome in the summer, when it’s HOT! Here, a simple combination of espresso, ice, and sugar are shaken together (“shakerato”) to form a creamy, unique bit of magic, which generally gets served in a martini glass. You’re on vacation, try something new! Get a caffè shakerato (and other fun drinks) at La Casa Del Caffè Tazza d’Oro (Pantheon). One note, I’ve seen variations with Bailey’s Irish Cream or other dairy products or liqueurs, so you may want to ask about the ingredients before ordering.

A Caffè Shakerato in Piazza Campo De’ Fiori.

Three Final Tips:

• One size fits all when it comes to coffee. There is no small, medium, or large.
• If you would like a decaf, ask for your coffee “decaffeinato.”
• To go coffee orders aren’t common as far as I know (I’ve rarely seen them). But last year in Rome, Joanne was suffering badly from jet lag, it was raining, and she just wasn’t feeling well. So, she asked me if I could get her a coffee to go from the bar below our Airbnb (a caffè americano no less :). I honestly was a little nervous, unsure of the response I was going to get, but they had to go cups and (happily?) made one for me. Perhaps to go orders are more common post-pandemic, but the whole Italian coffee experience at a bar is so lovely (and fast) that there isn’t generally a reason in my mind to not enjoy your drink standing at the bar. That said, if you have no choice (i.e. you can’t say no to your jet-lagged, sick spouse) you can at least ask: Buongiorno, posso avere un caffè da portar via? 

---

Running in Rome.

If like us, your typical day begins with a run, then this section is for you!

When I was living part time in Rome in the early 2000s, I used to regularly run in Circo Massimo (Circus Maximus). And sometimes, I would take a slight detour to run up and around The Colosseum. Though it’s very cool to experience Rome via a jog through the historical center, you’ll likely have to stop frequently while negotiating all of the cobblestones. And Circo Massimo hasn’t looked in great shape for running (or much else) the last few times I’ve given it a look. But, if you’re only going out for 20-30 minutes, you don’t mind a little walking, and your main focus is not the workout, but rather seeing the sites (with hopes of stopping for a few espressos along the way, not at all a bad plan!), you can always find a way to make it work (see the end of this section for the perfect way). That said, if you want a place where you can run longer, uninterrupted, and still experience some pretty amazing views, here are my four go to places:

1. The Path Along The Tiber – In Italian you may hear this referred to as La Pista Ciclabile del Tevere (The Tiber Cycling Path) and though rain can wreak havoc on it (from river flooding), if it’s been dry, this is usually our go to place. You can access it from several points along Lungotevere (the street running above the path), including Ponte Sisto (Trastevere) and a few bridges near the Vatican. And it’s flat, unlike most of the park options below.

The path along the tiber, as seen from above and below.

2. Villa Borghese – I’ve never found Villa Borghese to be the most ideal place to run (lots of turns, hills, people, and not a clear path) but it’s not at all bad either, and unlike the other villa options, it’s mostly paved. If it’s close to your hotel or AirBnB, then definitely give it a try. One real plus is that you can hit a lot of interesting places along the way, including Piazza del Popolo and Piazza di Spagna.
3. Villa (Doria) Pamphili – If you’re staying in or near Trastevere (one of our favorite neighborhoods), then this is definitely a place worth considering. I used to run here a lot. 
4. Villa Ada – This might not be as convenient as some of the other options (just slightly farther from the historical center), but I love running here. One of my cousins, who I used to stay with frequently, lives right around the corner, so this was my go to place for years.

Races in Rome.

If you get lucky to be in Rome when there is a race, this is the best way to run through the city and see the sites. It’s awesome! I’ve done it several times, and as you’ll see if you check out the race maps, they do a good job of hitting all the spots! 

We Run Rome – New Year’s Eve 5k and 10K.
Rome Marathon 2025 (and 5k Fun Run) – March 2025

Other possibilities:

CorriRoma – I ran this once, but not sure if it’s going to continue. It looks like the last race was in 2022.
June 10k – This 2024 race has passed, but I’ll update the site with others that I see.

CorriRoma in Piazza Del Popolo.

Rome Music & Entertainment.

Rome does an amazing job of putting on concerts in unique and often breathtaking, historical settings, especially in the summer. I’ve heard jazz concerts atop Piazza Venezia, seen an opera (Cavalleria Rusticana) at the Baths of Caracalla, and once, in 2016, brought my entire music class (I was teaching at Loyola’s Rome campus) to Rome’s Foro Italico (outdoor tennis stadium) to hear Beethoven’s Ninth Symphony. Unfortunately, these events are not always easy to find, but here is an article from “Romeing” to give you a general idea about this year’s happenings. And more specifically, below are some of the venues that I’ve enjoyed going to over the years.

Auditorium Parco della Musica – One of the largest cultural arts centers in Europe, this relatively new complex, designed by Renzo Piano and opened in 2002-2003, hosts events in all musical genres as well as dance, theater and even art exhibits. It is the permanent home for The Orchestra dell’Accademia Nazionale di Santa Cecilia, but Joanne and I saw D’Angelo there during her first visit to Italy way back in 2015!

D’Angelo on the outdoor stage at Auditorium Parco Della Musica.

Terme Di Caracalla Festival – Outdoor opera, symphonic, and pop concerts at the ancient Baths of Caracalla. I believe the 2024 season has concluded, but this article will give you an idea of the vibe.

Casa Del Jazz – Indoor and outdoor jazz concerts, featuring world-class touring artists.

Circo Massimo – Though Circus Maximus might not be the best place for running these days, it is one of the primary venues for big rock concerts, national celebrations, and the like. I haven’t really been to a show there (I’ve taken a tune or two in from the sidelines), but if this is your thing, be on the lookout for events in this ancient Roman stadium that hosted chariot races, among other events.

---

Finding Rome: Podcast & Newsletter.

I could keep on writing, but for more on the eternal city, check out these past blog posts, podcasts, and Instagram highlights from Joanne:

• Finding Rome – Written and podcast version.
• Finding Rome (Italian) – a translation of the above that I did as a Christmas present for Joanne last year.
• Rome Instagram Story highlights from 2018.

Joanne near Piazza Campo De’ Fiori.

---

Florence, Milan, Sardinia, and More.

Recently, we’ve made it a point to venture out beyond the comfortable confines of Italy’s capital. Here are a few thoughts and or recommendations for:

Firenze

We’ve been to Florence a few times recently, and we love it (how can you not?). And though we haven’t found it especially easy for vegans (it’s a very meat heavy city), one sandwich shop really stood out, I’ Girone De’ Ghiotti. They offer a handful of plant-based options (3 as of our last visit) and the sandwich, or schiacciata, that I got was even better than advertised. Highly recommended! Check them out on Instagram.

While in Florence, you might find yourself shopping for jewelry, whether or not you were planning on it, haha. It can be a little overwhelming, but Joanne has a knack for finding the right place (whether it’s jewelry or anything else) and, in Florence, Volterrani & Raddi was that place. We liked the store and its friendly and helpful owner, Federico, so much that we’ve been back more than once to pick up beautiful and unique gifts for family and friends. Enjoy a scenic stroll across Ponte Vecchio, but perhaps save your jewelry shopping for Volterrani & Raddi or somewhere else.

Torino

We added Turin on to the end of our honeymoon in 2018 after reading that the then mayor had a plan to turn it into Italy’s first “Vegetarian City.” Who knows what that meant, but it sounded good, and was certainly enough to sell us on a visit! We’ve only been there once, and again it was in 2018, but Soul Kitchen made a BIG impression on us. Still one of our favorite meals ever. Take a look at the pictures on their Instagram. And if it’s good enough for Novak…

Check out Joanne’s Instagram highlights here from Turin, featuring our incredible meal at Soul Kitchen back in 2018.

With owner and chef, Luca Andrè.

Lago Di Garda

Everyone does Lake Como, but for our first trip to the region in 2023, we wanted to do something different. Italy’s biggest lake, Lake Garda wasn’t a hard sell. We ended up at the Lefay Resort, which given that we went in the offseason was quite a bit more affordable than had we gone in the summer. The resort was stunning, absolutely beautiful, but the real story was the restaurant. Though Joanne booked our stay, she didn’t do the type of in-depth research that she normally does, especially with regards to the food situation. In fact, when we were leaving Florence on our way north, she warned that there might not be much for us to eat at Lefay. Well, funny thing… it turns out that their main restaurant, Gramen, is meat and dairy free and offers two tasting menus, one featuring plants (Per Agros), the other featuring fish (Per Aquam). Naturally we did “Per Agros” vegan, which absolutely blew our minds! 

Dessert at Gramen.

Milano

We visited Milan right after Lake Garda, and while we were only there for two nights, we made the most of it! We followed up our extraordinary meal at Gramen (above) with two more exquisite tasting menus, first at the Armani Hotel and then at Joia, Europe’s first vegetarian restaurant to be awarded a Michelin star (way back in 1996!). They were both incredible, among the very best meals we’ve ever had, and Joia is an absolute must if you make it to Milan. Just be sure to make a reservation well in advance.

Joanne with Pietro Leemann at his Michelin Star restaurant Joia.

Another find in Milan was Gelato Giusto, an all vegan ice cream shop not far from Joia. Their website, and even the gelateria itself, doesn’t make a point of stating that it’s 100% vegan, but it is. Here is the Happy Cow page to put your mind at rest 🙂

Gelato Giusto in Milan.

Sardegna and Ponza

Sardegna – or Sardinia in English, has some of the most beautiful beaches and clear blue water in the world. Joanne and I have been to a few different parts of the island, but Porto Cervo, along The Emerald Coast (Costa Smeralda), is probably the most well-known and popular destination for vacationers. We spent part of our honeymoon there and had an incredible time, visiting one beautiful little town after another, with fun and magical daily excursions worked into the mix. I don’t remember encountering too many all-vegan eateries (to be fair, our last visit was 2018), but we had no problem eating extraordinarily well, including at the Hotel Luci di la Muntagna. Check out Joanne’s Instagram Story highlights here for much more on our 2018 visit.

This vegetable concaseé from our hotel, Luci di la Muntagna, was a big hit!

Ponza – I had been traveling to Italy for almost 20 years before I even heard of Ponza, but in 2015, on Joanne’s first trip, we went for a few days and WOW!!!! It is often described as a hidden gem, and it’s a fairly easy trip to make from Rome. Perfect for a weekend getaway! Since it’s been almost 10 years since our one and only visit, I’m a little hesitant to give hard recommendations, but below was our view from the Chiaia Di Luna Hotel. Not too bad! Read (or listen to) more about Ponza in Joanne’s Finding Rome.

Our view from the Chiaia Di Luna Hotel in Ponza.

Up Next: Venezia and The Dolomites!

We’ll be back in Italy this fall with our first ever trip together to Venice and The Dolomites. Been to either? Any recommendations? Let us know below.

Comments & Questions.